Showing posts with label Vegan. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Vegan. Show all posts

SAUMA CURRY FOR EIGHT

In another life of mine, I volunteer with PEN International, which advocates for the responsible freedom of expression and the release of wrongfully imprisoned writers. Although we are a worldwide organisation, it gets a little tricky being critical of some governments and it is not always easy to be a journalist, poet, playwright, novelist, or writer under some regimes. It can get you in trouble. What that means being where I am is a certain responsibility to call out human rights abuses at home from refugee detention to media freedom, data retention, mass surveillance, all of which are increasingly important in our digital era. The other night, the Perth chapter brought over a high profile journalist who was imprisoned, and, after listening to his talk, we went out for dinner, as you do.

He was staying at the Alex Hotel, just a short walk from the State Library, and we decided it would be best to keep it local. That meant the whole of Northbridge was in our backyard and so there was a world of choice on our doorstep. Would we go sushi at nearby Aisuru? Would we go modern Lebanese at Hummus Club? Would we opt for pizza at Comet? In my humble, food blogging opinion, these were all worthy choices. The only request from our guest was that no tripe or okra was served. Keeping this in mind and not wanting to disappoint, we decided to find the place that was most likely to serve these slimy specialities. We were hoping, of course, to trigger his memory of being in jail. Alas, no one would come to the table and we settled for a curry instead, down the road at Sauma.

There were 8 of us and we needed a good feed. We left it to mum to order for us, not on account of racial profiling though she certainly has the expertise, but rather because she knows how to handle a group situation and balance the flavours that make a meal more than the sum of its dishes. And so, after a short wait, the curries arrived – mushroom and pea, roast eggplant, fish in banana leaf, legumes. You might be thinking, what is a legume curry. I thought that myself, legumes after all, being a kind of catch all from beans to peas and everything in between. This was red kidney beans, some black lentils, and some unknown ingredients, all of which would suggest that ‘legume curry’ was, in actual fact, an apt description.

And so, we munched on curry and talked the night away, spending time thinking aloud about the war on terror, the state of security, why everyone is exhausted by Israel-Palestine, what matters more than being at home, and why we had not ordered enough naan and why there was no dum aloo on the menu at all. I knocked back a few beers, but kept it in order. I was with the white haired brigade and I had driving duties in the morning.

In between, I managed to have a good conversation about poetry with someone at the table, who, to my absolute amazement, kept her white silk shirt completely clean as we made our way through thick gravy. There was no safety net and this was a high wire act, and yet, she did admirably well.


I thought about what it was to got out for curry, something I rarely do, and though it will never be as good as mum’s, there was enough to like at Sauma that I would return for. My only regret was that I did not get pani puri, but that might be for another time, when PEN brings over another guest, who wants to get their feet wet in Indian street cuisine’s tamarind glory. And that might be all we can hope for, that we get another chance to host someone else, that they can find in life after prison a little good taste in a restaurant that does not put on airs but simply puts on a few good curries and a pleasant atmosphere.  

LANI'S FARM JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE

The farmers’ market has been a commonplace during my time in America. When I lived in Philadelphia a decade ago, I used to frequent Clark Park where Amish people would sell whoopee pies, relishes of a great many types, and acorn squash when the season was right. There is a farmers’ market I visit every Thursday here in New York. Located just near Columbia’s campus, there is a handful of stalls that have the seasonal basics and the regular items that one lusts for – moist cakes decorated with nuts and spices; boutique soda with old school flavours like maple cream and apple cinnamon; cheese, oh what cheese, from goat to blue to brie and back again past cheddar and gouda and everything in between; baked treats like focaccia with olives and tomatoes, small tarts with custard and fruit; cider that has beads of moisture on the side of the bottle looking like the gods have presented refreshment itself. The farmers’ market is a treat, a kind of fete for those of us who miss the dirt in this concrete city.

When I wander along here, seeing the hot air rise from the subway below, a million recipes come into my mind. Should I make herb barley soup with roasted heirloom carrots be they white, orange or purple? Should I make pasta with julienned zucchini, slivers of eggplant, a glug of olive oil? Should I splash out and break the tradition of not eating meat at home, buying a shoulder of pork to baste and roast with a love so tender that the mouth begins to water simply thinking of it? This is to say nothing of what happens when one starts to talk to the people here. You say that the pak choi today is particularly good? Maybe I can make a stir-fir with a sticky garlic sauce. The spaghetti squash has just been picked this morning? Maybe I can roast tomatoes and toss it with basil on top. And you think that this arugula is peppery and fresh, the last harvest before the snow? Well, maybe I can dress it with walnuts, balsamic vinegar and honey.

The stall I go to most often though is Lani’s Farm. Their produce, like every other place, is arranged simply on foldaway tables. They have a great selection of leafy greens, root vegetables and apples as well as a handful of jarred goods. What keeps me going back though is the monopoly they have on Jerusalem artichokes. The artichokes here are fresh and relatively inexpensive. These knobbly vegetables are worth the seasonal blues. They keep me happy when it seems like the winter has got me down and they are something I always look forward to. When I see them on a restaurant menu I always order them – pureed or creamed or made into a soup. Jerusalem artichokes are where my heart is at.


All we do on Thursdays is roast them in high heat (say 450 degrees) and sprinkle them with salt. The outer skin is golden, crisp and chewy, a kind of earthy caramel, and the inside is soft, moist and fluffy, a kind of wet chestnut. We eat them almost without fail every week and I cannot, for the life of me, figure out why they are not the most popular vegetable in the world. And, thanks to Lani’s Farm, I have them all winter.

Farmer's Market
Thursdays at Columbia University
Subway: 1 at 110th, 116th.



PEACEFOOD ROASTED PUMPKIN SANDWICH

Q: How do you know someone is a _______  ?
A: They tell you.

Q: What do you call 1000 _______ at the bottom of the ocean?
A: A good start.

Q: What’s the difference between _______ and _______  ?
A: _______ knows they are a dickhead.

In versions of these jokes, I have heard the person in question be Harvard alumni, corporate lawyers, and vegans. I am sympathetic to the vegan cause and with K being an aspiring one, we mainly have a plant based diet at home. Yet, it will be noted from the first post that I do not count myself among their ranks and in future posts there will be meat involved. If I were going to advocate an ethical style of eating, it would be one that was resolutely local and involved some killing and butchering of wild meat myself. In that way, I take deep pleasure in eating the fish, lobster or abalone I catch down on the south west coast back home.

But in New York, the options for eating meat are somewhat different. Meat here runs from factory farmed, agribusiness, monstrous flesh to the pasture raised, locally sourced, organic varieties that one purchases from local markets where you know the farmer’s name. When dining out, it is harder to determine meat’s provenance, and sometimes that causes concern or changes our choice of dishes. This brings me to one of our favourite places to eat lunch – Peacefood Café. K and I prefer it to nearby vegan restaurants Mana and Blossom du Jour, though all of them have appealing qualities.

Peacefood serves a menu that is all American café – Caesar salad, gyoza, corn chowder, cheeseburger, not-chicken tenders, sushi, fries. The staff are friendly in an absent-minded way, kind of gentle and fluid, never rushed or hurrying, daggy too in sweatpants and joggers, or socks and sandals. Over the speakers they play an eclectic selection of music from slow and smooth R'n'B to jangling freeform jazz. On one wall, there are old posters and Disney figurines, near the window a large round table and plants. It is lived in like a sharehouse, reminiscent of undergraduate lentil stew that was eaten while you spend hours in a fire bath humming reggae tunes. Peacefood is a restaurant paved with good intentions. It is charming in the way that one’s local pub is charming, rather than being a magnetic destination that pulls one from miles away, and we like it because it is close by.

I have eaten their soup and their salad, but what I like best of all are their sandwiches. They bear very little resemblance to the stacks of meat, cheese, sauces found in delis right across New York. At Peacefood, they are made of crumbling house-baked brown bread that tastes like reason in a society high on sugar and missing fibre. Mine is filled with roasted pumpkin puree, caramelised onions, ground walnuts, cashew cheese and greens. As a whole, it is sweet and jammy, kind of soft and welcoming in a pliable, mushy way. The pumpkin is rich and has been roasted brown before being mashed, the onions cooked low and slow so they complement it with an intense depth of flavour, the greens are fresh and crispy, and the nuts do the work of flavourful condiments. It is served with a side of pickled jicama and a bunch of alfalfa sprouts, both of which lift and refresh.

The effect of eating here matters. One feels satisfied and somehow enlightened as though the tasty good times have become tasty good vibes, that one has taken into the body the peace that the café is trying to cultivate. When it comes to walking out the door, one does so with a spring in the step. You feel uplifted in your body, clean if somewhat self-congratulatory, and in very different shape than if you had downed a stack of cold cuts slathered in creamy dressing on white bread. Maybe now you can do 100 sun salutations and greet the stranger on the street with smiles that are beatific, and all because of a $12 sandwich.

Peacefood Café
460 Amsterdam Ave, New York, NY 10024
10 AM – 10 PM

Subway: 1 at 79th Street; C, B at 81st Street.